Review: Darwin

Name: Darwin
Address: 211 N Clinton St, Syracuse, NY
Phone: (315) 373-0484
Neighborhood: Downtown
Website: www.darwinonclinton.com
Menu: View Menu
Cuisine: Deli
Restaurant Hours: Monday to Friday 9 AM - 3 PM
Parking: On-Street
Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
Take-Out: Yes
Delivery: Yes (with a $40 minimum to businesses)

A rare, early nice day in the year called for a trip to Darwin for lunch, the little deli tucked away on Clinton Street just north of Clinton Square. I went there once last year after they had just opened, but figured they were about due for another trial. Walking in was like night and day compared to a year ago. While it's still a really small place, what was once a slightly awkward and cramped setup is much more streamlined and open-air feeling. The cooking and prep areas take up a large portion of the interior, but they've managed to make enough room for stacks of soda and chips for the customers to grab on their way to the pay station, display cases for drinks and deserts, separate ordering and pick-up stations (on the right and left, respectively), and a quaint counter by the window for seating, eating, and people watching. The counter is a really nice touch and is about a 7 foot long clean chopping block-style counter top with about 5 stools underneath. Overall, a much more cohesive and functioning interior for both the customers and workers.

Displayed overhead is a large chalk board with the daily happenings. Their menu changes weekly and typically borrows flavors from New York, Chicago, New Orleans, Texas, Boston, and California, just to name a few. On this particular visit, some of the main selections featured were The Big Easy muffaletta (with thin layers of capicola, salami, mortadella, and provolone, covered in a homemade marinated olive spread), the Bikini Bottom Crabby Patty (fried Maryland-style crab cake on a Harrison roll with homemade tartar sauce, lettuce, tomato, and red onions), Pork Cubano (shredded pork with Virginia baked ham, melted Swiss, dill pickle spears, spicy brown mustard on a French loaf), Darwin's Rock Shrimp Po' Boy, Two Ships Passing in The Night, for the vegetarians (mozzerela, marinated portabello mushrooms, red onions, parmesean crusted tomato, fresh spinach and basil on stretch bread with homemade creamy balsamic dressing), and their best seller, Darwin's Midnight Train to Georgia (prime rib roast on Pasta's stretch loaf topped with Swiss cheese, frizzled red onions, and horseradish mayo). Darwin also features homemade soups and salads, homemade sides like sesame noodles, coleslaw, and mac-n-cheese, and chocolate chip and oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. For Fridays, they offer a fish fry with breaded Fish Cove haddock and on weekday mornings, they offer Paul deLima coffee, fresh squeezed OJ, breakfast pizza, and blueberry and cranberry lemon scones.

They tend to keep many of the sandwiches and sides on the menu for a few weeks or so, but there's usually something new on the menu every week. A good suggestion is to view it online before stopping in.

The order...

NYC Lobster Roll: $11
Roasted Red Pepper Bisque: $3
Chocolate Chip Cookie: $2
Total Money Spent with Tax & Tip: $17.28

Clockwise from upper left is the Roasted Red Pepper Bisque, a piece of stretch bread from Pasta's, the NYC Lobster Roll, and a Chocolate Chip Cookie from Yum Yum Bakery. After I was handed my order, the cashier said, "Enjoy your lobster rolls!", I said something like, "Oh, I will!" but in my head I'm thinking "Rolls? As in plural? Are these going to be like the sad display of twin lobster rolls I received on a recent Red Lobster visit?" (For what it's worth, they were not good: salty, expensive, small, burnt, and filled with tasteless, shredded claw meat, which is half the reason why I needed to order them again at Darwin three days later). These mopped the floor with them. Actually, Darwin's lobster rolls were just about the best I've had anywhere here or in New England. First of all, it's a huge portion size of not just lobster meat, but of a roll in general. This is closer to a lobster sub. It was filled with extremely tender and fresh, whole pieces of lobster claw meat practically falling out at all points, thinly dressed in a light Hellman's mayo with pieces of chopped celery and scallions, fitted on a bed of fresh Romaine lettuce, and stuffed in a DiLaruo's sub roll that was lightly toasted with butter and a hint of garlic. TO DIE FOR. If you're craving a lobster roll in Syracuse, you may as well look nowhere else. This is about as good as you'll find anywhere around here. And $11 really isn't all that bad when you consider that this could easily be $20 in Boston or New York. But the highlight for me was really the great taste of lobster meat, how it wasn't ripped apart so much to look like scraps, and how it wasn't overly dressed with mayo and fillers. Just a great tasting lobster roll all around. If it's any consolation, I'm a little guy and consumed the entire thing in about 8 minutes.

The Roasted Red Pepper Bisque was really tasty: a somewhat thick tomato based puree with bits of onions, scallions, garlic, and roasted red peppers that overall was zesty, garlicy, and full of flavor. I'm not normally a soup person, but I would definitely order this again. I probably could've just gotten a bowl of this bisque for lunch and would've been content. And you really can't complain about getting Pasta's stretch bread as a garnish, which was perfect for dipping. Plus, it's always great seeing one local business supporting another.

On a whim, I picked up a delicious Yum Yum Bakery chocolate chip cookie on display on top of the counter. It was very good: chewy, not at all dried out, and had a perfect amount of sugar. Though, I'm a chocolate fiend and would've liked to have seen a little more chips in the cookie. A quick google search of the bakery suggests that it may have been gluten free.

Other notes...

- I would LOVE to see them open on Saturdays, but understand that there may not be a demand during the weekends like there is during the week.

- They do offer delivery, but specifically for Downtown and local business and a minimum of $40. Faxing can be made by signing up for their fax list every Monday morning. More details here.

- Darwin is an off-shoot of Riley's Restaurant, located at 312 Park St in the Northside.

If you're in the vicinity for lunch during the week, give them a shot. Now that the weather's getting nicer, Clinton Square makes a decent eating spot when the fountain is running as do the few tables right outside the restaurant when the warmth permits. Overall, it was a superb lunch. The chefs are really doing some cool things at Darwin with fresh ingredients, thoughtful and flavorful recipes, a menu full of weekly surprises, ideas that are perfectly executed, and best of all, they're all in good spirits and very friendly. With all of those things happening, it makes you want to go over there more often. This particular visit was definitely worthy of 5 stars, but I've only been there twice and really would like to try a few more things before placing them in the 5 star category. 4 for now and I'll definitely be back soon. I can't wait to try out their po' boy and fish fry Fridays.

My rating of Darwin:

Review: Bill's Inn Fish Fry

Name: Bill's Inn Fish Fry
Address: 401 W Seneca Turnpike, Syracuse, NY
Neighborhood: South Valley
Website: www.billsinn.com
Menu: View Menu
Cuisine: Seafood, Traditional American, Deli
Restaurant Hours: Monday to Thursday 10:30 AM - 9 PM, Friday 10:30 AM - 10 PM, Saturday 11:30 AM - 8 PM
Parking: Private Lot
Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
Take-out: Yes

Since its old location on Salina Street to its current location on West Seneca Turnpike, Bill's Inn Fish Fry has been providing fried fish to Syracusans since 1927. Located in the South Valley, Bill's is the city's first and oldest fish fry and has been in operation for over 80 years.

The building itself is right on the corner of Seneca Turnpike and Valley Drive at the Turnpike Center shopping plaza. There's parking spots out front and some tables set up outside which makes it easy for carry-out or enjoying a meal outdoors. For the most part, it's a family-friendly environment - especially with Gannon's Isle right around the corner. It seems like a great spot to grab dinner and then head over for ice cream afterwards.

The interior is decent - cramped, but not uncomfortable. It's pretty much what you would expect from a fish fry: a few tables, random neighborhood happenings and pictures adorning the walls, a giant menu over the counter, and the deep fryers in plain sight.

The menu at Bill's is completely mouth-watering and includes items like shrimp cocktail, calamari, chili, loaded fries, fried oysters, scallops, lobster tail, homemade desserts, and their self-proclaimed 1/2 pound burger. As much as I wanted to try everything on the menu, I had to go with something traditional...

The order...

Chocolate Milk: $1.50
Haddock Sandwich w/ Fries: $6.25
Total Money Spent with Tax & Tip: $10

The Haddock sandwich was pretty good. The fish wasn't as tender as I would have liked it, but the breading was light and crunchy (they fry their seafood here in peanut oil which I think gave it that light taste - it was a nice change from the ordinary). The bun was slightly grilled and airy. Overall, it was a good sandwich. It didn't taste greasy or heavy which was a nice surprise. The fresh cut fries were tasty, but I thought they were a tad over-cooked as they had a little bit too much crunch. And it ain't fish and chips if you don't put malt vinegar on there. Bravo for Bill's having this available.

Overall, the fish dinner was good - a large portion and generally inexpensive. For the purposes of nostalgia, it was a really nice dining experience. I was here with my dad who grew up in the neighborhood in the early 50's, so I think it was nice for him to take a trip down memory lane with his youngest son. I'd go back to Bill's again and try some other food if I happen to be in the neighborhood. A lot of it sounded tasty on the menu. However, there's some other fish places in the city that I'd like to try out before returning here for one.

My rating of Bill's Inn Fish Fry:

Review: Pascale Wine Bar & Restaurant

Name: Pascale Wine Bar & Restaurant
Address: 204 W Fayette St, Syracuse, NY
Neighborhood: Downtown (Armory Square)
Website: www.pascalerestaurant.com
Menu: View Menu
Cuisine: New American, Fine Dining, Wine Bar
Alcohol: Full Bar
Restaurant Hours: Monday to Thursday 5:30 PM - 9 PM, Friday to Saturday 5:30 PM - 10:30 PM
Bar Hours: Monday to Saturday 5 PM to close
Parking: On-Street and Valet
Accepts Credit Cards: Yes
Accepts Reservations: Yes
Take-out: No

Pascale Wine Bar & Restaurant has been a Syracuse venue for refined, eclectic, and sophisticated dining for over 25 years. Since its opening in 1982, Pascale has been home to some of the best fine-dining in the city. The interior is spacious and features an open kitchen, large bar area near the front, and plenty of intimate seating. However, something was rubbing me the wrong way about the interior overall upon walking in. The colors all seemed a little forced and really presented the place with an early 90's sort of vibe (the beige colors, the flower patterns on the booths, and the pattern of square, rainbow colors that are presented in areas like the ceiling, the windows, and even the candle holders). I mean it was fine, but it didn't seem trendy, or progressive, or romantic to me. And if that's what they're aiming for, I think they need an update on the color scheme, focus on dimmer lighting, and change the music (it was some sort of drum and bass trance music during my visit that didn't fit in at all with the rest of the restaurant). Really, they could take a few notes from Pastabilities as far as the interior is concerned. Everything seemed overly deliberate and jumbled. I'm really hoping that Pascale isn't "the most romantic restaurant in Syracuse" (per the Syracuse New Times). If it is, it implies that romantic dining is all downhill from here. Although I cannot attest quite yet, I'd like to hope that there is at least one better romantic place in the city. That isn't to say that Pascale isn't a good date spot (it is), it's just that the interior fell flat and didn't deliver what I was expecting.

The dinner menu is clear, concise, and contemporary. It's also updated seasonally and on this occasion featured a nice selection of appetizers like Seared Tuna, Risotto, and Foie Gras, and a very creative list of entrees like Venison Wellington, Moroccan Lamb Shank, and Moulard Duck Confit.

The wine list is extremely extensive and actually reads a bit like a book report. As noted by Wine Spectator, Pascale's award winning wine list features approximately 400 selections of wines from around the world. So yes, there is much to choose from. Even the liquor selection is large. I counted about 8 different types of tequila as I brushed through the selection of alcohol. If you're unsure about what to order or what you may like, the wait staff is very helpful and knowledgeable to give assistance.

The order...

Rose: Las Rocas 2007 - Spain (Bottle): $20
Seafood Salad: $8
Filet Mignon: $24
Total Money Spent with Tax & Tip: $68

Pictured above is a basket of Pascale's homemade breads with a cruet of olive oil.

The breads, which are freshly made from Pascale Cafe & Bakehouse, were very good. Unfortunately, I didn't have the exact names, but I tried two of them: one was a whole-wheat artisan bread which had a hint of nuttiness to it and the other was somewhat of a traditional Italian with olives. Thumbs up.

The green olive oil? Thumbs down. I wasn't really a fan of it. Unless I'm way off base, it tasted like it had an infused herb (perhaps sage?). It was just a little too bitter for my liking. I suppose if it was combined with a basic, rustic bread I probably wouldn't have minded it so much, but a flavored bread with a flavored olive oil was too overwhelming. There was just too much going on - especially when you're dealing with something as simple as bread and oil. Instead, I think Pascale would be better off pairing the breads with a simple, nice olive oil - which might highlight the breads a little more.

Pictured here is the seafood salad with calamari, rock shrimp, scallops, spring vegetables, and a lemon basil vinaigrette served in a bowl of radicchio on a bed of greens.

You can't really tell by the picture, but this is a deceivingly big portion of food. The ingredients were all good and fresh and the scallops were simply amazing. I'm not even a huge scallops fan, but I think Pascale may have given me a 180 on the subject as these were some of the best that I've ever had. Nice and chewy and so tender that they almost tasted a bit like lobster meat. The other seafood ingredients were good but nothing noteworthy. The calamari was a bit rubbery, even for calamari and most of the rock shrimp were a bit on the minuscule side, even for rock shrimp. Overall it was a good salad, but there was too much stuff (roughly 8 different vegetables and herbs and 3 seafoods). It's a salad so it wasn't like there was anything clashing per se, but I think something a bit more concise like seafood, cucumber, carrots, red peppers, and a garnish on greens with a vinaigrette would have done the trick.

Pictured above is the Filet Mignon with Bearnaise sauce, green beans, and a garlic mashed potato.

The Filet Mignon was very good - very tender and juicy. Though, it was served moderately undercooked (I had asked for medium and it came out rare). I usually don't mind when meat is over/under cooked as I like most varieties, but to me it was just the principle that this wasn't what I had asked for. I suppose I could have asked the waitress to send it back, but I'm quite shy when it comes to things like that and try not to be one of those people.

At any rate, the meat was topped with a perfect, buttery Bearnaise sauce. The mashed potatoes were excellent. Creamy, garlicky, and had almost a hint of onion or shallot flavor as well. So good. The green beans were crispy and cooked perfectly and creatively garnished with thinly sliced carrots, red onions, and red peppers. Very, very tasty and well-cooked green beans. And finally, the plate was garnished with what looked like chickweed or wood sorrel. I don't know the name. Forgive me if I'm talking like a Martian. Either way, I liked the garnish (which was the same one that was used on the seafood salad). It gave the dish a nice, bright texture. Though, some of the garnish on the entree plate was wilted and brown. Which leads me to a much bigger issue...

If you don't consider your restaurant to be fine-dining then I normally wouldn't be making a mountain out of an ant hill about the Filet Mignon being undercooked and topped with sub-par garnish. But if a restaurant is implying that it is elite, then I think that you reserve the right to be picky on these kinds of things. I mean, if I got a piece of brown lettuce at Brooklyn Pickle, I would just pick it out and not eat it, but if I'm paying $24 for an entree, everything on the plate should be presented impeccably. And by no means am I referring to the plating because that was excellent. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the "quality control" could have been slightly higher (i.e. a correctly cooked piece of meat with a clean garnish).

Overall though and all bickering aside, this was a great, great entree dish; a very good combination of colors, textures, and flavors.

I've been in places where once you finish your meal, it almost feels like they are trying to rush you out as quickly as possible: clearing off your table, taking your water away, throwing the bill at you, etc.. That wasn't the case at all here. The wait staff let me sit, relax, enjoy my wine, and really just take in the moment. I wasn't planning on staying too long afterwards and I also wasn't planning on ordering any dessert, but by the time they rolled that dessert trolley near my table, I almost completely changed my mind. I admittedly didn't have enough room in my stomach to fit any more food, but it was quite amusing to see every one's eyes within a radius of 10 feet suddenly glued in like a deer in headlights on the mouth watering display of homemade cakes, pastries, and ice cream being rolled around from table to table.

A couple additional things of note...

- Pascale features live jazz music on Saturday nights.

- They also offer valet parking ($3).

- Although, I'd still call it a good "date spot", the ambiance can vary. I was there on a Tuesday night and it was somewhat loud.

- The clientele was also a bit more well-dressed here than what I was expecting. I was wearing a plain, dark tee and nice jeans and felt a tad out of place. So I'd advise that the dress is dressy/classy (i.e. no Nascar shirts, dude).

Overall, it was an excellent dining experience. The food was great and creative and the service was personable, attentive, and yet very professional at all ends of the restaurant. But giving it a 5-star ranking would be a bit of a stretch for me. I have to give Pascale a half star deduction on what felt like a forced interior and a slight miss on food execution. By all means I'd go back again, but probably only for a special occasion.

My rating of Pascale Wine Bar & Restaurant:

Flexing Your Mussels at Kitty Hoynes

Note: For my full review of Kitty Hoynes, click here.

Pictured below is a Black and Tan and the soup of the day...

Soup of the Day: Tomato and basil with small pieces of onions, garlic, and carrots and topped with cruetons. Anytime you make a tomato soup with basil, garlic, and onions, it runs the risk of tasting like pasta sauce, but the consistancy of this was good enough to make it taste more like soup and less like speghetti sauce.

So if you like mussels, you can eat like 187 of them at Kitty Hoynes for $10. The dish is complete with roasted red tomatoes and bacon in a lemongrass wine sauce and served with crusty bread. The meal tasted just like the sea and the lemongrass wine sauce was so good - tasty enough to dip your bread into and eat on its own.

Black and Tan (half Guinness, half Harp): $4.50
Tomato and Basil Soup: $3.50
Brazen Head PEI Mussels: $10
Total cost with tax and tip: $22.26